Just a month into one of the great Hawaiian winters, and it was already scary. A powerful west swell crossed by something nasty from the north. And a wind too strong to be trusted. It was a gnarly day for a first round and when the sirens came wailing down Kam Highway, you knew someone was paying a price.
But what a price.
First Steve Massefeller, a likeable Texan kid they called "Beaver". He hit the reef with the left side of his head, stopped breathing, and went to hospital on life support. A heat and half later - Chris Lundy had his right knee twisted all the way around. When they pulled him out, the foot was facing backward.
Beaver surfed again, but he was never the same. Lundy moved to California, went to art college, came back to Hawaii, and painted all the great Masters poster art of the ‘90s.
Somehow, Pipe found a way to drag him back.