Billabong Pipe Masters

Surf Forecast | Billabong Pipe Masters

Dec 14, 2019

By Kevin Wallis / Surfline

Brief Overview

  • Moderate NNW swell mix continues Sunday, trades ease temporarily before rebuilding late
  • Solid NW swell Monday PM-Tue with strong ENE (Mon) to E/ENE (Tue) trades
  • Another solid NW swell for Thu-Fri as strong trades likely continue

SUNDAY 15th

Holding 5-7’ faces. Offshore wind eases from Saturday then sideshore wind rebuilds late.

SWELL/SURF:  Reinforcing NW swell should fill in to keep the surf up and similar to Saturday, with shorter period N swell easing.  
WIND: Moderate E trades through the first half of the day building from the NE/ENE late in the day and overnight 


MONDAY 16th

Slow for the AM but building 8-12’ occ. 15’+ faces in the afternoon/evening. Strong side/offshore wind.    

SWELL/SURF:  New, long period NW swell should build through the afternoon and evening hours, strongest at the end of the day. The best waves will likely be at Pipe with less frequent waves at Backdoor.
WIND: Strong ENE trades.  


TUESDAY 17th

Easing 10-15’ faces AM, smaller PM. Strong offshore wind.    

SWELL/SURF:  NW swell should slowly trend down through the day. Mix of good waves at Pipe and Backdoor waves. 
WIND: Strong E to ENE trades.  


WEDNESDAY 18th

Fading 6-8’+ faces. Moderate offshore wind.    

SWELL/SURF:  NW swell should continue to fade through the day. 
WIND: Breezy E trades should ease a bit from Tuesday.  


THURSDAY 19th

Rebuilding 10-15’ faces. Strong side-offshore wind.    

SWELL/SURF:  New NW swell is likely to build in and peak, looking similar in size to slightly smaller than the Mon-Tue swell. Stay tuned. 
WIND: ENE trades may rebuild and become strong. 

Analysis

Shorter to mid period NNW swell mix will continue on Sunday and should set up similar surf to what we saw today. The surf will remain rather jumbled, although should slowly become a bit better organized as the short period N swell fades. Trades should temporarily ease - at least for the first part of the day - and come out of the east. Later in the day and especially overnight we expect building and breezy ENE trades to return as high pressure strengthens to the north of the islands. 

We remain on track to see a solid, long period NW swell (305-330 with peak energy around 320-325 degrees) increase for early next week. There are no major changes from yesterday’s forecast and Monday morning should be fairly slow with the swell primarily coming on during the afternoon and evening hours. During that time, well overhead to double overhead surf is expected to fill in. Sets by the end of the day should reach 15’+ faces if not a bit larger. We expect the swell to peak overnight and gradually trend down on Tuesday but surf in the 10-15’+ range on the face is expected for the morning before slowly easing during the afternoon. 

Wednesday should see a continued fading trend, although the surf should still be a couple to a few feet overhead on sets during the first half of the day.  

Strong trades are expected early next week, more ENE in direction on Monday and trending E/ENE on Tuesday. We should partly to mostly sunny skies and much less rain than we’ve seen over the past 24-48 hours, although short, passing showers are still very possible. Trades should temporarily ease on Wednesday. 

Another long period NW swell is expected for the end of the week and looks similar in size and direction to the Monday-Tuesday swell, although current model guidance has it just a bit smaller at this point. This swell has been well advertised by the models for several days now without much variation in the size and timing, so confidence is fairly high for another significant swell. At this point we expect it to build in to a peak on Thursday before fading on Friday. Strong ENE trades are expected to rebuild on Thursday and continue Friday. Stay tuned, we’ll refine the details as we see the storm develop in the next couple days. 


Next Update: Sunday, December 15th 


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